World Adventurers on Horseback

By Leigh Ballard

Phil and Kay Coop of Memphis, Tennessee, are fearless when it comes to trail riding. They vacation on horseback, and they have ridden all over the world in exotic and fascinating places that are off the beaten path for tourists.

Their adventures started in the mid-1980s when Phil, who has ridden horseback since childhood, convinced Kay to join him in riding horses as a hobby. After Kay learned to ride, they took their first trip – a jungle ride in Belize, and they’ve done about a dozen tours since. Phil and Kay choose their rides in keeping with their personal and professional interests: wildlife, history, and ecology. They have ridden in Mexico to see the Monarch butterflies. They have galloped the beaches of Costa Rica.

“Kay and I firmly believe that the best way to see a place is from horseback rather than from the window of a tour bus,” Phil said. One can experience the wildlife, the ecology and the history of a place with first hand, personal involvement. On a trip through Peru, they crossed a range of the Andes that is inaccessible by motor vehicle. They started at the outfitter’s ranch in Urubamba and rode through the mountains to Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Incas. They crossed through the Valley of the Gods and were able to see ancient ruins that have never become tourist destinations because they can’t be reached by roads. The pristine beauty and isolation of the place was breathtaking!

While all their trips have been memorable, Botswana was particularly memorable and dramatic for them.  The Coops and their group came in the Okavango Delta by horseback. At night they camped in tents and by day they followed elephant herds, galloped with zebras, and were even chased by a baby giraffe. They swam rivers and avoided crocodiles. Phil has a picture to remember the day when he was charged by a bull elephant!

In Belize they learned about an equestrian “subculture” of folks who enjoy some of the world’s best destinations on horseback. They discovered that there is large group of people with this equestrian interest and that there are travel agencies that specialize in such tours.

If you are interested in horseback treks, tours are available for novice riders to advanced riders. Tour groups are generally small, about 6 to 10 people, often from all parts of the world. The riders in a tour meet at their starting point, and after a week or so on horseback and camping together in exotic places, they often develop lasting memories and friendships. The Coops have developed friendships with riders from England, Spain and Holland, and several other places.

The horses for these tours are often specific to their country. While riding in Spain, the Coops were mounted on Andalusians. In Peru, they rode Peruvian Pasos, the smooth gaited, national horse of Peru. As they came into the small villages in the mountains, the sound of their horses’ four beat gait on the cobblestone streets would bring the villagers to their doors, smiling and applauding the horses and riders.  On other tours, they have ridden Arabians and Thoroughbreds.

All of the horses are very experienced in their job. The horses are usually well-trained, fit, athletic and independent. Sometimes in a difficult situation, the outfitter will tell the rider, “Just let the horse do it.” There may be cliffs, narrow trails, situations with wildlife and weather that may be new and foreign to the rider, but the well-trained horses have seen it before and know more about negotiating it than the rider does.

The horses are matched to their riders by height, weight, and riding ability. There are often rider weight limits because the demands on the horses can be great, especially in high altitudes and rough terrain. The rider is assessed by ability level and sometimes goes on a “check ride” to make sure their ability is compatible with the horse’s level. Riders usually stay with their horse the entire trip, especially if it is a “trekking” trip where they travel from point A to point B and then C until they are finished. Stationary trips return to a home base every night and horses can be changed if necessary.

The tour agencies describe their rides as for novice to advanced riders so that an inexperienced rider won’t get into a riding situation that is beyond his level. Riders know in advance if it will be a slow trip or a trip that moves fast with a lot of galloping. The tour is well described for what to expect about terrain and wildlife. For example, the Botswana trip is one where the rider is expected to be fairly good, because going fast is the way to escape danger!

Phil and Kay’s next big adventure is billed as “the best horse adventure on the planet.” It is a trip across the Andes from Argentina to Chile retracing the route of the famous General José de San Martín in 1817, part of his strategy to liberate Chile from Spanish rule. San Martín took the Spaniards by surprise because crossing the Andes is extremely difficult due to high altitudes and low temperatures. It took him 21 days and is considered a major feat in military history. This is a very popular tour with South Americans. Although it will be summertime in South America on the trip, travelers will be camping for two nights at 14,000 feet above sea level and in the snow. Several riders from the Memphis area will participate in this trip with the Coops, which, indeed, promises to be a challenge.